A Holiday Recap
- Natalie Penry
- Feb 4
- 15 min read
So...I lied a bit about being more consistent with posts, but in my defense, I was busy celebrating! Now that the last festive day has passed, I can properly fill you in on what's been going on here in the last month. In other words, the long-awaited Menorca Holiday Guide :)
You might be thinking, "Natalie, the holidays ended almost three weeks ago, what are you talking about?" to which I would say "Oh ho ho, this is Menorca, land of the Three Kings and an island under Saint Anthony's patronage. The holidays actually just wrapped up on Friday." And thus, a recap that isn't embarrassingly late.
This post will take you from Spain's Constitution Day in early December to Diada del Poble de Menorca (Saint Anthony's Day) in mid-January, including a little holiday jaunt to Vienna over winter break, so without further ado, let's get festive!
A Light Constitution
Spain's Constitution Day is celebrated on December 6th, giving everyone a three-day weekend this year and extra time to celebrate! The main event in Mahón is the Christmas Tree Lighting (not a real tree, a really tall wire one right by the town hall). When I say main event, I mean main event. It's a common joke amongst my friends that somebody must be lying on the census here, because there's no way 40,000 people live in Mahón; we hardly see anyone at all during the day or at night. The Tree Lighting proved us absolutely wrong - I had never seen so many people crowded into the tiny cobblestone streets, all craning to get a glimpse of the show.
Luckily for us, returning Aux Jack had recommended we get a reservation at a bar overlooking the plaza, so we only had to jostle for position around the windows with ~20 people, nowhere close to the hundreds down below. So, what is this amazing show that somehow convinces all these people to leave their houses after dark in December? The Arrival of the Els Llumets.
The Els Llumets are Santa's helpers, four sprites with green skin and jester costumes that quite literally repel down the side of the church into the plaza and help light the tree. There is a thirty minute monologue/performance leading up to their appearance - all spoken in Catalan, so I haven't the slightest idea what they were actually saying - and the act of repelling takes a hot second itself. Still, a really fun, quite silly way to start the holiday season! After the Llumets bring the lights to Mahón, the rest of the city's lights are switched on for the remainder of the holiday season, creating a festive lights path not unlike something you'd see at Newfield's or the Brickyard - home away from home!
A Wonderful Christmastime
My last day of classes this year was December 19th, giving me a healthy three week winter break. I did decide that a trip back to Indiana wasn't in the cards this year, despite my longing for Christmasy weather and favorite traditions. Instead, I opted for a moderate, Mediterranean Holiday, jackets optional.
The first half of Christmas break was mostly spent watching holiday movies and making Christmas Crack (new obsession), with copious amounts of reading thrown in. Half of my flatmates had embarked on their own holiday travels, so the apartment was atypically quiet. Not a bad set-up for me though, with lots of time to enjoy the peace and quiet.
I'll touch more on this in a moment, but Christmas is not nearly as big a deal here as it is in the US, thanks to the prevalence of the Three Kings here. Most families do celebrate Christmas in some way on the 25th, but it typically isn't the whole big shebang of waking up at the crack of dawn to watch a toddler open presents. I won't lie - both being by myself and in this more low-key Christmas town, I really did enjoy waking up late on Christmas morning and making my own little Christmas meals without the fanfare I'm more accustomed to (french toast! pumpkin pasta! more Christmas crack!). As another bonus, since everyone else in my family was at least six hours behind, I got to have a very relaxed start to the holiday before calling everyone and catching up.
While I of course missed my loved ones and being home, I really have no bad things to say about my most unorthodox holiday season yet 😊
Vienna Waits for New Year's
After my lovely, relaxing Christmas, I made my way to the Mahón airport for just my second trip to the mainland - you didn't think I was going to spend my whole break lounging around, did you? Nah, I decided to lean into the urge to see snow in December and make my way to Austria for a New Year's Treat. Honestly, this five-day getaway could be its own standalone blog post, so I'll try my best to keep it concise.
Day 1: Mostly travel! The moment I stepped off the plane in Vienna, I confirmed I'd all but lost my Midwestern Winter Stamina - living on an island has weakened me and I was not mentally prepared for 30-degree weather. Besides that, it was an eventful evening with impromptu hostel friends: lots of Jenga, lots of giggles, and lots of fun ;)
Day 2: After getting off to a somewhat slow start to the morning, I made my way around Vienna with some of the hostel friends from the night before, a walking tour of sorts. We saw the classics - the Opera House, St Stephen's Cathedral, the Maria-Theresien-Platz Christmas Market. I was really struck by just how opulent the architecture of the city was, such a far cry from Mahón's more provincial village feel or Indy's sleepy urban ambience.
I did make us all stop by the Christmas Market, getting my fill of holiday spirit and cute little stalls. It was surprisingly busy for December 29th, with mainly tourists filling up the sidewalks. From there, it was a quick transition to the Hofburg Palace, and then onto a late lunch where I discovered that Pizza Marinara is not the same thing as a cheese pizza: it's literally just bread and tomato sauce (Alainna's dream!). It was yummy, though, so no worries :)
Post-lunch, I think everyone needed some downtime to recover. The sunset was criminally early, like 4:10 in the afternoon because of how far east in the time zone we were, and when the sun goes down, it immediately feels like nap time, you know? When everyone's social batteries had recharged a bit, it was back to the hostel bar for card games and drinks. Being a holiday Sunday night, there wasn't a ton happening, but we still managed to get out and about a bit. It wasn't a night to go crazy, though, since...
Day 3: I had a day trip planned! Monday the 30th started with an early wakeup (really felt that one after two eventful nights) and choking down a hostel croissant since I had an early train to catch.
If you know me at all, you know that my scratch-off world map is one of my most prized possessions and that I'm on an extended quest to color in as many countries as possible. Since I'd already been to Austria (Salzburg, not Vienna, but still), I couldn't pass up the opportunity to cross a new country off, not when it was a mere 60-minute ride away...thus, I ended up on the train to Bratislava, Slovakia!
In hindsight, this was my most favorite adventure during winter break. Though it was gray and cloudy with little flurries of snow, I absolutely adored the little Christmas Market they had set up. My fingers and toes might have gone numb, but it actually felt like the holidays! Plus, the food and drinks at the market were some of the yummiest food I had over break, enjoying some traditional halušky and rožky.
I was also particularly struck by the juxtaposition in architecture. The Old Town itself had a very storybook vibe, with lots of cobblestone streets and historic buildings. Surrounding that little Gothic bubble of history was the remains of the Communist era, lots of Brutalist architecture - the UFO bridge being a prime example that we could barely make out through the fog. The contrast was delicious, like a piece of living history you could walk around in.
As much as I would have loved to spend some more time in Slovakia, daylight was waning and I still had to cross country lines. It was a lovely sunset ride back to Vienna, where I settled into the hostel for the night, trying to get a decent amount of sleep before New Year's Eve.
Day 4: New Year's Eve! If my somewhat frostbitten walking tour the day before had taught me anything, it was that I needed to prepare for the night's activities. The warm, sunny days from earlier that week had fled, and we were looking at some truly *chilly* hours to ring in the New Year. Thus, my final morning of 2024 was spent running errands, including buying some thermal tights, snacks for when the groceries stores were closed the following day, and picking up some souvenirs.
When I had originally booked this trip, I think my planning phase went something like "Vienna is supposed to be really pretty in the winter, I'll just go there." I was woefully unaware of the main event happening in Vienna until after tickets were purchased, but in a way that made it a wonderful thing to discover in the weeks leading up to the trip! I was beyond excited to discover that Vienna basically turns itself into a mini music festival on New Year's Eve, setting up eight stages across the center of the city that play from 2:00 pm to 2:00 am, like the most wonderful musical event you could imagine. Called the 'Silvesterpfad' (New Year's Eve Path), countless locals and tourists will meet throughout the streets of the city dancing and singing along to a wide variety of genres. No matter what your music taste is, there's a stage for :) Obviously, I was mentally ready to rock the night away; physically, I needed a little help. In preparation for my extended foray into the Viennese winter, I layered up like Randy from A Christmas Story - two shirts, a jacket, thermal tights, hand warmers, feet warmers, etc. I slightly resembled a marshmallow, but 3:00 pm Natalie knew that 11:00 pm Natalie would appreciate the foresight (she did).
I began the night around 3:30, when I left hostel and began braving the cold. Over the next ten hours, I would go on to visit 7/8 stages and see so many talented musicians from a variety of genres. Name a more perfect NYE than that (iykyk regarding my luck from the past few NYEs...) Without making you relive my every step on New Year's Eve, I'll simply recap my musical adventures!
Graben Stage
A beautiful little pedestrian street that turns into Europe's Biggest Ballroom! Couples learn to waltz throughout the evening so they can quite literally waltz the New Year in at midnight. I very much enjoyed my beginner's waltz lesson; shout out to the random guy that was my partner (I think his name was Joel?)
Neuer Markt
By far, my favorite stage of the night! I'm not sure what it's official title was, but in my head, Neuer Markt is the Tribute Stage. I jammed out the most here, listening to a Toto Tribute Band, an Elton John Tribute Act, and a Tina Turner Tribute. Hearing "I'm Still Standing" at 10:00 when my feet were so incredibly devoid of feeling was absolutely what I needed to push through to the final hours.
Karntner StraBe
The Latin & Pop stage! Mostly populated with DJs, I was reminded more of Menorca here, with lots of salsa-ing and Today's Hits blasting through the block. I only spent ~1 hour here, but still lots of fun!
Stephansplatz
Set at the base of the famous St. Stephan's Cathedral, Stephansplatz was the Waltz & Big Band Stage. I stopped by for a bit in the afternoon to listen and dance to an incredibly talented violinist who treated us to classics like Strauss and contemporary hits like "Cotton-Eyed Joe" - fun all around! I intentionally hit this stage earlier in the day because I heard it got absolutely packed as midnight approached.
Am Hof
Location-wise, Am Hof was one of my favorites. Located in the Am Hof plaza, the stage was surrounded by simply brilliant architecture that made me feel like royalty as the pop & rock music played. A nice pitstop in a centrally-located stage.
Freyung
Full of Ballads, Austropop and Rock’n’Roll, I didn't spend a lot of time with Freyung, but the sea of 40-somethings that set up shop here sure seemed to love it.
Rathausplatz
Last but not least, arguably the most iconic stage of the night: The Rathausplatz. Located in front of the town hall in one of the most important squares in the city, this stage was *the* place to be at midnight. A classical group played earlier in the night, but as the New Year approached, a local music school group took the stage, alternating between Strauss & pop hits. I couldn't begin to fathom how many people crammed into that space, but I was in such people soup, I could barely shuffle a couple inches either direction. That being said, it was such a fun environment to countdown to midnight. I couldn't exactly understand the mini speeches in between songs (they were in German), but there was great energy regardless. When the fireworks went off (a vaguely creepy effect in the thick fog above us), there was cheering and singing and so much dancing! It was actually rather sweet to see so many different types of families gathering to celebrate and waltz at midnight - old couples, new couples, parents, teenagers, etc. Everyone had something or someone to celebrate, so even though I was by myself, I hardly felt alone.
Some last shout-outs from New Year's: there was a lot of Strauss being played because 2025 is supposedly the Year of Strauss, so that explains that...I also managed to secure the cutest mug I've ever seen in my life (it's shaped like a mushroom)...people also give each other little porcelain pigs at midnight, which is definitely a tradition I can get behind. When all is said and done, what a fantastic way to celebrate the end of such an influential year and what a wonderful way to begin a new year and to continue such a fantastic adventure.
Day 5: As fun as New Year's Eve was, I wasn't quite finished with Vienna yet...On my last full day in the city, I was determined to start the New Year on a high note. I schlepped myself out to a scenic walking route on the Danube, froze my fingers off, and promptly returned to the hostel. No matter! I warmed up for a bit, and then got ready to go to the really exciting part of the day: a classical music concert at a real-life Palace. I mean, does it get any more Classically Natalie than that???
Schönbrunn Palace holds holiday concerts throughout the season, and I managed to snag a ticket to the New Year's Day performance. In a city renowned for its music and composers, this felt like fate, pushing me to something fantastic. Before the concert began, I spent some time at the Schönbrunn Christmas Market (the most elegant of all the markets I'd seen), soaking in all the ambience. The stalls and square itself are so adorable and regal, it's easy to let your mind wander and really feel like you've found yourself in some majestic time warp, where kings and queens and royalty are but steps away. That sort of magic is only amplified when you finally step foot into the Orangerie, where the concert takes place.
I won't lie, the room appears unassuming at first, just rows of red velvet folding chairs. It's only when the lights dim and the first wonderful cacophony of instruments tuning hits that magic really starts. It's been ages since I've heard classical music performed live like that, with musicians who dedicate their lives to it, and wow. To see anyone do something they're incredibly adept at is such a gift. Over the two hours of the concert, I lost myself in Mozart and Strauss, in arias and sonatas and everything in between. I felt both like a little kid at the Symphony, letting the music guide successive scenes of make-believe, and like a real grown-up - look at me, dressed up at the Palace for a concert. It was exactly the energy I want to bring to the rest of the year: whimsy and class and elegance.
Day 6: Vienna wrapped up quickly the next morning, with a flight to Mallorca, and then back to Mahón. I was exhausted and happy and so glad to be back in the Mediterranean, where coats are not a necessity in January ;)
These Three Kings
As I mentioned earlier, Menorca is in the realm of the Three Kings. Here, many families believe that is the Three Kings (also called Magic Kings) who bring gifts to the children on camelback, knocking on doors to deliver the goods. In a nod to this tradition, on the evening of the January 5th, there is often a huge parade through the city, complete with the kings, their jesters, and many, many individuals on horseback. Some families choose to open their gifts on the 5th; others wait until the 6th, but this is definitely one of the main events of the winter break. Naturally, this was a sight we needed to see!
Tell me, where should I begin: with the absolute drip the kings had or the differences between American and Menorcan parades? This was honestly one of the most opulently-coordinated costuming spectaculars I've seen in a while, just waves and waves of people dressed up like characters or in their horse-riding best. The kings arrive to the starting point via boat in the port, making their way up the S curves and through the historic city center before landing back in the plaza where the season first began. My friends and I stuck to the beginning of the parade route before beating traffic home - the kings were cool, but nobody wanted to find themselves in people soup again.
The parade itself had meticulous detail, with a cohesive, appealing decor theme and while I'm still not totally familiar with the details of the tradition, it was clear to see each King had a unique and yet connected vibe. Regarding the differences in parade etiquette, there was a lot more encroaching on the parade path here, making many of us American nervous - aside from the sheer number of people, the horses were foaming at the mouth, which is apparently normal but unnerving for the outlanders. Also, the candy thrown out was almost exclusively hard fruit candies, like what you find at retirement homes. I'll never say no to parade candy, but my inner child was dying for some Tootsie Rolls, you know?
Saint Anthony is For the Dogs
Our final holiday in the lineup, and an extra special one because we had an extra special guest! I was so fortunate to play host yet again and welcome my mom to Menorca for a week in mid-January. While the weather was slightly icky throughout her time there, our last day made up for it with the Saint Anthony Celebrations.
Menorca considers Anthony to be its patron saint, something about Anthony being entrusted to King Alfonso III during Alfonso's reconquest of the island, ending three centuries or so of Arab rule. Nowadays, it's a bank holiday that means we get a pretty sick celebration focusing on our favorite family members: the pets! (shoutout Zoë for the pet pics!)
Along with bonfires and toasting traditional sobrasadas, the key celebration of Sant Antoni in Mahón is the Benediction Parade, where locals gather to bring their furry friends to get quasi-baptized with holy water and ensure that Antoni will be looking after them over the year. The parade includes the iconic giants, bands, people on horseback, church figures, and so many pets. Just a sampling of the adorable pets we saw included dogs, cats, rabbits, birds, hamsters, a turtle and a chicken (who was sat in a purse with a leash attached). Imagine endless chihuahuas in designer coats, with a dash of fat cats and friendly golden retrievers. Literally the best day of my life.
After the parade, my mother and I wandered over to Plaza Esplanada to check out some of the market stalls, sampling some pastries, Menorcan beers, and local artisan jewelry. Luckily, the rain stayed away until we were safe indoors admiring our treasures!
While not strictly related to Saint Anthony, that night was my mom's last in Menorca, so we headed to one of my favorite restaurants for a nicer, goodbye meal. It's always so nice to get a piece of home, if only for a week, especially as we gear up to face the second half of the program.
That's a Wrap!
Before this wraps up, I do want to highlight my personal New Year's traditions: 1 Second Everday videos.
The premise of this app is pretty simple: take a one-second video or picture every day, log it in the app, and at the end of the year, reflect on your ~6 minute recap video. I started doing this in 2020, thinking that it would be smart to record the end of high school and first semester of college...it did turn out to be a very memorable year!
In December of 2022, I decided to start again, wanting to capture my adventures from Semester at Sea and backpacking. Audio issues not withstanding, that video is genuinely one of the things I'm proudest of making from a human growth point of view.
While it can be slightly tiring to take those little clips day after day for hundreds of days in a row, I did want to continue recording for 2024. At the start of this year, I had no idea where I would end up by July, and I wanted something to look back on to see how I got from West Lafayette to Wherever. Once again, I unintentionally stumbled onto a rather exciting year, and I am so proud of the adventures I've had the last ~365 days.
The video is a bit long, around six minute, but if you'd like to take a peek into the exciting, the mundane, and everything in between, feel free to check it out here:
I would, selfishly, recommend watching the 2023 1SE video as well, since it basically acts as a mini-European guided tour ;)
It is, perhaps, a bit too early to speculate on whether or not I'll continue the tradition this year, but I suspect I will. Creature of habit and all that. With that being said, I'm on my way to go soak up the sun - it's decided to peak through the clouds here after a week of wind and rain. Thanks for following along & Happy New Year!
Comentarios